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Tire pressure will drop significantly over the Main nozzle and nothing affects handling and wear more than very low tire pressure, so be sure to put a gauge on those stems before the motorcycle rolls out of the garage. If the tread is worn near the tread-wear indicators, or if the tires show any signs of rot, now’s a good time to replace the old tires with new rubber.
While you’re down there, check drive train wear. Sprockets should show no significant signs of hooking and the chain should not pull very far away from the back of the sprocket. Replace the chain and sprockets as a set if necessary. If all looks good, check the adjustment and give the chain a good lube. Hopefully you lubricated the chain before storage, which means no rust should be present. If this duty was neglected, give the chain a clean and lubricate it before the first ride, then perform a more thorough lubrication after the chain is warm.
Check your oil level, or better yet, change the oil and filter if you didn’t do it before tucking your bike away last fall. Old engine oil contains acids that are best removed. If your bike is liquid-cooled, check coolant levels, including the fluid in your overflow tank (see your owner’s manual).
It is important you maintain your brakes. Squeeze the front brake lever and press on the rear brake pedal to feel for a firm application. Look in the sight glass or at the brake master cylinders to see that brake-fluid levels are good and if the fluid is the color of apple juice or darker, plan on replacing it soon.
Grab a flashlight and take a close look at your front and rear brake calipers to see how much brake pad material there is remaining. Most brake pads have a notch cut into the pad as a wear indicator. If in doubt, have the pads replaced. It’s cheap insurance.
Weak or dead batteries are another common mechanical issue that can stand in the way of reviving a motorcycle after a long period of dormancy. Hopefully you kept your battery charged. If not, you will likely have to charge the battery before it will start the engine. If it will not hold a charge, a new battery is in your future.
Compressors are available in numerous shapes and sizes, but one with an eight-gallon holding tank and the capability to produce 125 psi (pounds per square inch) should be considered the minimum specification.
As a mechanic’s knowledge increases, the repair or service jobs they are likely to tackle become more involved. At this point, pullers and extractors become an essential part of the mechanic's tool kit. However, because pullers and extractors are somewhat specialist in their application, the mechanic should purchase them on an as-needed basis.
Home mechanics can get a good usable tool kit that accomplishes most tasks at low cost. Going for Carburetor seat valve is still an option, especially if you can go old school with manual tools. So get your tool kit up to snuff, and get the bike in its best working order!